The Wylde Edit: New York Fashion Week AW16
Words by Lauren Rae
Rodarte’s use of virginal white lace, deep reds, ruffled sleeves and heavy embroidery was a Wylde favourite this season. The collections’ take on soft ‘goth bride’ serves darker undertones, yet perfectly encapsulates elegance. The exquisitely produced collection is also rumoured to be loosely based on the Godfather films.
Perfectly encapsulating his boho eccentric signature, Altuzarra’s AW16 collection played with contrasting print and texture. Using paisley, stripes and statement knitwear, this collection flawlessly embodied the modern gypset girl. Drawing inspiration from Jim Jarmusch’s classic Only Lovers Left Alive, Joseph Altuzzara focussed on silhouettes, the girls tiny waists cinched with statement belts.
With his daring take on the classic female silhouette, Delpozo’s Josep Font blends whimsy, elegance and modernity. With exaggerated sleeves, extraordinarily ornate opera gloves and the house’s signature architectural silhouettes, the collection embodied an off-kilter beauty. Unexpected colour combinations and doll-like, exaggerated proportions gave a sense of drama and rarity.
Inspired by the 60's & 70's Process Art movement and the likes of Frank Stella & Richard Serra, Proenza Schouler played with ideas of control and release. Creating lean silhouettes in the form of tailored jackets and coats, the collection featured billowing trousers, slashed shoulders and waist details, all held together with loose lacing. Further contrast was achieved with slick synthetic waxy fabrics and soft furs, shearling collars and raw edged hems. In keeping with their signature aesthetic, Proenza created yet another successful collection.
Closing NYFW, Marc Jacobs AW16 collection was a veritable expression of ‘baby doll Goth’. The show, which featured dramatic floor-length coats, draped sleeves and sky-high platform boots, also welcomed model of the moment Kendal Jenner and pop star Gaga, onto its runway. Jacob’s called on house signatures - capes, polka dots, band concert sweatshirts - to create a collection at once startlingly new yet unmistakably his own. The most theatrical and inspiring of the NY shows.