The Wylde Edit: London Fashion Week AW16
Words by Brent Taalur Ramsey
The true essence of Alexander McQueen returned to the label this season. Sarah Burton’s rendition of a midnight romance, where a sheer, lace-trimmed lingerie-inspired dress code contrasted elegantly with references to men’s tailoring. At once ethereal and realistic, Burton’s autumn/winter offerings consisted of trousers under sunray-pleated skirts, Marabou feather adornments and quilted silk satin eiderdown coats; whimsical motifs (including clock faces, floating lips, butterflies, birds and more) could be found printed, enlarged, appliqué and embroidered. Truly a collection of showstoppers, embellished with silver and gold beads and sequins, flowers and silk butterflies, there were also more accessible separates. The bias-cut slips, Lurex knits, shrunken leather perfectos and covetable coats worn over silk bras grounded this dreamy vision within the modern wardrobe.
Drawing inspiration from the natural world, designer Yasuko Furuta found beauty in the chaotic and built a collection with motifs representing mitochondria, paramecium and bacteria. Razor sharp tailored trousers, slashed to the calf to reveal glam-rock inspired glitter boots and paired with 'borrowed from the boys' shirting defined her eclectic mix. What makes TOGA’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection (and Furuta’s second-ever runway appearance) one of WYLDE’s favourites is how Furuta cleverly blends romantic dresses made of georgette and tulle, fur-patchwork on pockets and sleeves with smart, tailored numbers. Of course, she wasn’t the only designer to include fur into the lineup, but we love how she went for bold add-ons rather than allover looks.
Pulling fragile influences from the Arctic tundra, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos produced an Autumn/Winter 2016 collection that evoked abstract graphics and thread embroideries, blending Nordic symbolism with linear motifs that appeared on guipure lace or as chenille embroidery down flouncing skirts. Rarely straying beyond pastels of earthen and icy hues, this season’s garments consisted of tailored pantsuits, bias-cut satin flou gowns and one voluminous Fair Isle knitted poncho. But look closely when browsing the images from Pilotto’s runway show: You’ll find a few choice pieces from the designer’s collaborative jewellery collection with Swarovski, called “Arbol,” inspired by mechanical artworks and the molecules of nature for an almost effervescent effect.
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
Combining equal parts signature Preen (with dark floral prints, Nineties grunge influences and slouchy knits) and rich fabrication (including cotton and silk velvets, plaids and a black fil coupé with a stunning red floral print), designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi brought an almost witch-meets-a-rock-star charm to the runway this season, toughening up feminine forms and silhouettes with aggressive additions. Pleated leather dresses balanced beautifully with slinky cocktail dresses that shimmered into the room as sexy yet elegant, alongside a look pulled from the furry outerwear trend that’s certainly building up momentum this season.
With influences including 1950’s Americana and the Wild West, this season’s collection explored Mary Katrantzou’s romantic side, falling in love with opposing halves and attractive opposites, where the masculine bonds with the feminine. For her Autumn/Winter 2016 offerings, she goes further than bonding the two and proposes a lineup of technicolour motifs, pieces of saturated hues and styling options that merge cowboy details with ballerina silhouettes. This collection has major cool factor. Not only are we getting the statement yet effortless wearability of Katrantzou, but also her party-ready finale dresses, which would be perfect on the Red Carpet.