Wylde World: The Crown Inn, Church Enstone
Report by Shaun Middleton / Pictures by David Newton
The “chocolate box” villages of the Cotswolds have become synonymous with wealthy urbanites who make their way to the country most weekends to breath in the air of Ye Olde Englande. The area is both rural and charming, and claims as its own fashionistas such as Liz Hurley and some of the recently-retired political classes, as well as the usual hedge-funders seeking to escape the stress of the markets. The only market you’ll find here will be in nearby Chipping Norton on Wednesdays!
Beautiful house near the inn.
The village of Enstone is conveniently located a two-hour drive west along the M40 from London. It’s the usual mix for this part of the world: an ancient parish church and thatched honey-stoned cottages. And the heart of the village, as to be expected, is its pub; The Crown Inn.
Arched gateway in the local church yard.
Taking the reins in July 2018, local artist George Irvine – whose expressive landscapes adorn many walls of the inn – and his wife Victoria, have managed to avoid the cliché of the Cotswold Pub. Our visit coincided with the annual charity Quiz Night and the place was packed to the rafters. Not with out-of-towners playing at country folk for a couple of days, before whizzing back to the smoke (which we had feared); young farmers, a farrier and other locals pitted their wits against each other. Quiz mistress was the pub’s general manager Felicity, who brought sparkle, welcome, (her sister Rose urged us to join her table), and fair play to the evening… REALLY good fun!
There are five good sized bedrooms – plus a newly-launched two-bed cottage and studio next door – furnished in Cotswold chic; a seductive mix of old and new. The rooms are dominated by a bed the size of a tennis court and the deep leather arm chairs insist that you use them to read and relax. We had been given the dog-friendly Lidstone room, as we were accompanied on this trip by the Basset Hound Rupert, who found the comfy bed-pad – as well as doggy bowls – just the thing for a relaxing stay. And, did I mention there was a horse in the field right outside our window (see below)? Just watching it graze was hypnotically unwinding for this sad city boy!
The en-suite bathroom is what I would call Victorian Luxe (see pic below) and invites the weary traveller just to unwind and listen to the soft sounds of the Roberts radio floating through from the beamed bedroom, or to just enjoy the quiet.
Head Chef, Chris Taylor is responsible for the restaurant at the Crown, and sources fresh, seasonal produce from local suppliers. Taylor concentrates on flavour - and he delivers. To start, my companion opted for the Beetroot Ravioli with Goat’s Cheese (see below). The pasta was firm and the flavours it contained were strong and intense. I went for the Sautéed Scallops - my congratulations to Chris for avoiding the almost statutory disc of black pudding that so often appears with this dish, and giving me instead a confit of onion, which was partnered with panchetta, which brought out the subtlety of the soft and tender scallops.
The main course was equally good. My companion went for the Guinea Fowl Supreme (below) - which can often be overcooked, but not here; it fell off the bone and was enveloped in a wild mushroom velouté, which brought an instant hit of golden autumn flavours. I had the Slow-Cooked Lamb Shank; unguent, rich and unapologetically robust; it delivered in spades and gave me what I wanted - flavour.
The puddings are fun; do try the Iced Wilcote Honey & Nougatine Parfait. The cheese is local and outstanding - Oxford Blue, Holy Smoke Single Gloucester & Simon Weaver Organic Brie, with Crown Chutney and biscuits.
The Crown is mindful of its place as a local pub and it does a Fish and Chip takeaway service on a Friday… a great idea! It’s forward thinking like this that will continue to root The Crown in the affections of its local, regular clientele - and which will make the inn a great lure for the occasional refugee from the Smoke. So, for any urbanites reading this: when life gets too much, head for The Crown Inn at Enstone, a home away from home and a genuine retreat from life in the city. And for any locals: you are seriously lucky! We loved it and we’ll be back.
